Saturday, February 20, 2010

No Atheist In Lisbon Bottoms


2009 MR 340

The river race from Kansas City to St. Charles began one and a half hours behind schedule because of rain. Seems strange to delay a race on the water because of rain! I guess it was the lightning that actually caused the delay. Once the race starts it will continue until the end despite the weather circumstance. The rainfall cooled off an August morning which always has the potential to be very hot.

Chad and I paddled our Kevlar Wenonah Escapade canoe, named MY DIANNA, out into the Kansas River and pulled in behind “Its woot” which was paddled by our good friends from the Discovery Expedition of St. Charles. It was our intent to draft on them for awhile but it was difficult for the two of us to maintain the pace of six paddlers and after a few miles they paddled out of our sight.

We had done a couple of practice runs on the Missouri and we were concerned with our ability to keep the sleek Escapade upright. It is designed for performance not necessary for a couple of occasional paddlers. To ensure the stability of the canoe we added outriggers which really made her stable and would actually allow us to stand up. As with all things there are always consequences. To gain the stability we gave up speed which became painfully obvious to us as canoes passed us continuously the first few hours

Some of the roughest water we encountered was at the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri Rivers . I don’t know if the rough water was because of the storms that morning, the two rivers coming together or all the canoes on the water. It was good to experience the rough water at the beginning because it gave us confidence in maintaining our canoes stability. However, I think we may have swamped at least once without the outriggers.

It’s pretty cool to paddle on the Missouri River with a fleet of other boats with folks lined up along the downtown Kansas City banks of the river to cheer us on, news helicopters flying overhead and cars stopped along the highway to watch us. It’s even cooler to be on the river where there is absolutely no other person around anywhere.

Most successful paddlers participating in the MR340 have a ground crew following along on land to provide food, drinks and supplies as they progress down the river. For our first two days Chad and I were supported by Wayne and his son Ethan. They made sure we had what we needed while we were on the river. Wayne is a Kansas City resident now but like us he grew up just a short distance from the Auxvasse Creek in the Kingdom of Callaway so it seems very appropriate for him and his son to support the “Sons of Auxvasse Creek” on this attempt to do what few have accomplished.

Our first checkpoint was at Lexington which is about 50 miles from the start. We landed our canoe along the very crowded bank, got out stretched our legs, ate, refilled our water jugs and cooler and raised the outriggers. The outriggers had done their job but we needed to gain some speed which means we need to keep the outriggers out of the water. The water was much calmer now and we were beginning to get a feel for each other and the canoe. It would be dark by the time we got to the next checkpoint so we set up our lights for night travel.

The next stretch of water takes us to Waverly which is about 75 miles from the starting point. We arrive after 10pm. Again its crowded we stretch our legs, get something to eat, refill our drinks and head back out into the dark. Night on the river is fantastic. With the full moon one can see much better than one would imagine. By this time I’m having blister problems on my hands. I was wearing construction gloves which offered good protection but once they got wet they stayed wet which made my hands tender. I was also beginning to feel some serious pain in my shoulders. I had anticipated shoulder problems so I got cortisone shots on both sides on Monday. I was beginning to think my shoulders were going to seize up. We arrived at our overnight camp at Miami at about 3:30 am. It was great to see our tent up thanks to Wayne and Ethan. I spread out on my air mattress and the next thing I know its 8am.

I knew I would be dealing with shoulder issues when I got up but that was not the case. I had absolutely no discomfort. It could have been the shots were kicking in but I think it had more to do with prayers from a few of my brothers in Christ who were praying for me and following along on Twitter. I didn’t have any trouble with my shoulders for the rest of the trip. It’s amazing how good one can feel after four hours of sleep.

The Miami Lions Club was cooking pancakes and sausage for breakfast so we purchased our breakfast drank down a couple of cups of coffee and headed back to the canoe. We decided to take the outriggers off and much refreshed we launched back into the current of the Missouri River . Our next stop would be Glasgow which is a significant milestone because nearly everyone that drops out of the race does so before Glasgow . Not that I had any doubts but it would be reassuring to get that behind us.

I was having some issues with an underarm rash so we phoned ahead to Wayne and Ethan and ask that they try to find some baby lotion. We arrived in Glasgow at about 4pm where we took an hour break and restocked our supplies. This would be the last time Wayne and his son would meet up with us. They were going to go ahead to Coopers Landing to set up our tent then go home. A fellow Lewis and Clark re-enactor Jeff Troupe from Nebraska would be our ground crew for the rest of the trip. Jeff was helping with “Its woot” as well and we ran him ragged taking care of both boats since they were way ahead of us. Jeff was also Chad's backup. Chad and his wife were expecting their 2nd child, first daughter, any time. In the event his wife went into labor Jeff was going to replace Chad. The little lady is a sweetheart and she waited until we were home to make her appearance.

Just a few miles below Glasgow are Lisbon Bottoms which is noted for being a treacherous stretch of water. There are T-Shirts available which note “There are no Atheist in Lisbon Bottoms”. We travel thru Lisbon Bottoms with no difficulty other than running up on a sand bar which was no real issue. Shortly after Lisbon Bottoms is Franklin Island which is at the base of the bluffs at Arrow Rock which represents the halfway mark for the trip. At about dark we were traveling with a small group of other paddlers when I noticed the canoe in front of us took an immediate left turn which seemed strange. As we approached the area our canoe did the same thing as the current from the Lamine River caught us and gave us a push sideways.
The stretch of water from Glasgow to Coopers was one of the longest of the trip. Most of it was after dark and it was thru this area that I experienced some uncanny visions. I discovered later that a lot of people experienced similar visions late at night due in part to the fatigue and the strange shadows from the moon and the trees on the river. More than once I could see a large ship (similar to the black pearl) out in my peripheral vision but when I would turn to look at it she wouldn’t be there.

We arrived at Coopers Landing at about 4am. I found our tent and went right to sleep. At Coopers one can get a shower for $2.00 so Chad thought he needed a shower before going to bed. Someone was in the shower and one was waiting so he paid the $2.00 and took his place in line. Seems someone was really dirty because they took about 45 minutes in the shower despite the knocks on the door and the proprietors asking him to cut it short. I waited till after my 4 hour nap to take my shower. We had a great bacon and egg sandwich and coffee for breakfast restocked and headed back down the river. Jeff would take down our tent and move it to our next stop at Herman.

More later.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Be flexible


My son Chad who was my partner last year in the MR340 can’t make it work this year so I needed to recruit a new member for the Sons of Auxvasse Creek team. One of my brothers in Christ and fellow Lewis & Clark re-enactor, Kyle Carroll, has joined up to do what few have attempted. This photo was taken at Pompey’s Pillar in Montana on the Yellowstone River in July of 2006 200 years after Wm. Clark carved his name in the face of the big rock.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

workin out

I’ve been doing my push up, sit-ups and squats as well a working on the bow flex thing trying to keep all the joints and muscles tuned up. I got in my longest bike ride of this year 17 miles which takes me to 160 miles YTD. The cold and early darkness hampers the bike workout but July will be here soon so need to keep at it. Hope to get in a few century rides before July because strength is good but endurance is what moves the canoe after the first 12 hours.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Our Logo

Our Logo is an image of one of the few pictographs Native Americans left behind which actually depict people in a canoe. The blue letters represent the waters that carry us around the next bend.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Why Sons of Auxvasse Creek

I grew up in Calwood, Missouri (known as the Crossroad of the World) located in the Kingdom of Callaway near the center of the state of Missouri in Callaway County the only county north of the Missouri River to succeed from the Union during the Civil War. Callaway County wasn’t admitted back to the state until after 1900 hence, “The Kingdom of Callaway".

Calwood is where most of my relatives still live. One of my older brothers lives on the farm our ancestors moved to in 1855 and another older brother and my little brother own and operate Wright Brothers Store. They were the third generation in the store until recently a nephew joined the operation to represent the 4th generation since 1916 and a great nephew is working parttime to represent the 5th generation. My sisters live nearby as well and my hero and oldest brother is buried there in the cemetery.

Anyway, The Auxvasse Creek is the primary watershed east of Calwood and Crows Fork Creek is the primary watershed west of Calwood. The Auxvasse and Crows Fork creeks join south of Calwood to form the Missouri River. As a kids in a small (about 40 people) town we would spend a lot of time at the Auxvasse Creek fishing, swimming or for some of the kids that’s where they took their baths. If we went east of Calwood it was about a mile to the creek, if we went south it was about 3 miles or north it was about 3 miles as well. We could ride our bikes, walk or hitchhike when the trucks were hauling out creek gravel. As we got older we often went to the Auxvasse Creek after hauling hay (the small square bales) to wash off the sweat and hay residue.

The Auxvasse Creek is where they baptized folks that joined New Hope or Unity Baptist churches. Those joining Ebenezer were baptized in the Crows Fork Creek. The Auxvasse Creek has several holes, which is where the water stays when the creek is down or not running. There is the Dunn Hole, Ice House Hole, Horseshoe Bend, Grave Yard Hole and the Austin Hole. The Austin Hole is still one of my favorite spots in the world.

It was near the Grave Yard Hole that I nearly drowned my two oldest sons and myself in July of 1982. I was 32 and they were 9 and 7. It was the most terrifying experience of my life. The creek was up and we were in a canoe, when we came around a bend in the creek a tree had fallen across the creek which forced the water to go under the tree. We couldn’t get out of the current and when the canoe hit the tree our canoe did a 180 degree flip. I was in the back and the boys in the front. The current swept me away and I came up about 30 yards down stream. The boys were no where in sight.

I swam to the bank got out and ran downstream trying to find my boys. I didn’t go far until I decided they couldn’t be that far away. I began running back to where the canoe was when my oldest son popped up out in the creek. I dove in and brought him to shore. He was OK, I ask him if he had seen his little brother (looking back that was a stupid question) to which he replied no. But soon he said he could see his little brother’s hands reaching out from under the canoe which was wedged beneath the tree. He was trapped under the canoe. I dove in to retrieve him at about the same time the current washed him out. I did manage to catch up with him and get him out as well. He was OK as well. The canoe suffered some damage but we were OK if you don’t count the nightmares that followed for the next few years.

All of that to get to why “Sons of Auxvasse Creek”, it seems a fitting name for a team that was spit up out of her muddy waters. My oldest son and I completed the MR340 in 2009 while the other survivor of that July, 1982 experience brought food to us.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Here is where the trail starts

I have traveled about 2,500 miles on the Mississippi, Missouri, Grand and Yellowstone Rivers as a member of the Discovery Expedition of St. Charles in addition to my MR340 travels. My favorite time on the Missouri River was experienced while traveling upstream in the White Pirogue near Ft Osage when we raised the sail and were propelled against the mighty current of the Missouri by the breath of God.

In the last few years I have traveled about 10,000 miles on my Fuji bicycle. I just enjoy propelling myself while traveling life’s trails.

I have also traveled around the track at Kansas Speedway in a 600 hp Chevrolet at 136mph and had the opportunity to travel aboard a 72,000 pound C130H aircraft. And as an operator of a $2 million M88 tank recovery vehicle I have traveled over very rough terrain.

--Another road I have traveled--The ROMAN ROAD....is a road you can travel. It is a group of Bible verses from the book of Romans in the New Testament. If you travel this road you will end up understanding how to be saved.

Romans 3:23 "For all have sinned and fall short of the glory of God."We all have sin in our hearts. We all were born with sin. We were born under the power of sin's control.- Admit that you are a sinner.

Romans 6:23a "...The wages of sin is death..." Sin has an ending. It results in death. We all face physical death, which is a result of sin. But a worse death is spiritual death that alienates us from God, and will last for all eternity. The Bible teaches that there is a place called the Lake of Fire where lost people will be in torment forever. It is the place where people who are spiritually dead will remain.- Understand that you deserve death for your sin.

Romans 6:23b "...But the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord." Salvation is a free gift from God to you! You can't earn this gift, but you must reach out and receive it.- Ask God to forgive you and save you.

Romans 5:8, "God demonstrates His own love for us, in that while we were yet sinners Christ died for us!"When Jesus died on the cross He paid sin's penalty. He paid the price for all sin, and when He took all the sins of the world on Himself on the cross, He bought us out of slavery to sin and death! The only condition is that we believe in Him and what He has done for us, understanding that we are now joined with Him, and that He is our life. He did all this because He loved us and gave Himself for us!- Give your life to God... His love poured out in Jesus on the cross is your only hope to have forgiveness and change. His love bought you out of being a slave to sin. His love is what saves you -- not religion, or church membership. God loves you!

Romans 10:13 "Whoever will call on the name of the Lord will be saved!" - Call out to God in the name of Jesus!Romans 10:9,10 "...If you confess with your mouth Jesus as Lord, and believe in your heart that God raised Jesus from the dead, you shall be saved; for with the heart man believes, resulting in righteousness, and with the mouth he confesses, resulting in salvation."- If you know that God is knocking on your heart's door, ask Him to come into your heart.

Salvation is free to anyone that will sincerely pray a prayer something like this:

Dear God, I confess to you that I am a sinner and in need of Jesus Christ as my Savior. Please forgive me. I turn away from my sin and place my faith in Jesus. Amen

If you prayed this prayer tell someone about your experience today.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010


Yellowstone River & Dougouts

2009 MR 340 team