2010 MR 340

Katfish Katy’s Thursday Morning

Rob and I at Cedar City.

When I awakened from my nap it was nearly 6:30 am. It was daylight but foggy and everything was wet from the heavy dew. Once I was up I took a walk down the road abut a half mile and back to my tent to get all of the kinks worked out. Last year I had some issues with my shoulders and blisters but this year my shoulders were pain free and I didn’t have a blister yet. I did get cortisone shots in my shoulders on Monday and I was wearing paddling gloves most of the time this year. Between the shots, gloves and the prayers of my brothers in Christ my body was holding up good considering the last 50 or so hours.

Last night I would have quit if I could have worked out the logistics but this morning I’m a new man and ready to get back on the river as we approach Callaway County. I have my breakfast of a caned Starbucks drink and a bagel from Panera. It was a good idea to bring the bagels, it’s a good change from the energy bars and they make a tasty and quick meal. With my restored energy a Bible verse came to mind:

"I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me."
Phillipians 4:13

As well as this poem by my favorite author:

If you think you are beaten, you are;
If you think you dare not, you don't.
If you'd like to win, but think you can't
It's almost a cinch you won't.
If you think you'll lose, you've lost.
For out in the world we find
Success begins with a fellow's will:
It's all in his state of mind.
If you think you're outclassed, you are:
You've got to think high to rise,
You've got to be sure of yourself before
You'll ever win that prize.
Life's battles don't always go
To the stronger or faster man,
But sooner or later the man who wins
Is the one who thinks he can.
Anonymous

I took my time taking down the tent because of the heavy dew and the fog because I really would like to fog to lift some before I took off. Once I had everything packed up and cleaned out my canoe one of the safety workers helped my carry “My Dianna” back down to the water, I mounted up and departed Katfish Katy’s at 8am. There was still some spotty fog but within an hour it was all clear.
Once back on the river it doesn’t take long to get back in the rhythm. There were some foggy spots but for the most part the river was clear.

It felt really good to be back on the river. No aches or pains and back in an area of the river I’m a little more familiar with. A few hours ago I was ready to quit but now its hard to imagine it even crossed my mind. My advice to anyone that ever might think about quitting the MR340 would be simply “take a nap”. Of course if one were experiencing a medical issue one must use common sense. Which reminds me of something I heard a while back, “common sense is not all that common”?

Once back underway I placed a call to my older brother, Rob, who had agreed to bring lunch to me at Jefferson City. I gave him my ETA and put in my order for a Big Mac and large ice tea. Somewhere about this time I entered into the waters of the Kingdom of Callaway so with the rest and now the energy from the Kingdom I was paddling as good as I had at any time on this trip. This is the same area that Matt and I paddled in the “Race to the Dome” a few weeks ago. We were fortunate to place 2nd in that event.

When one rounds that bend in the River above Jefferson City and can see the State Capitol building on the bluffs on the south side of the river and the Highway 54 Missouri River Bridge its time to start paddling to the Cedar City side of the river and the boat ramp which is almost under the bridge.

As I approached the boat ramp I could see Rob and Lewis Baumgartner, “The Worlds Worst Farmer”, coming down the ramp with my lunch. As a rule the officials at Cedar City don’t like for us to land at the boat ramp but they could see that Lewis was having a hard time navigating (due to a stroke a year or so ago) so they allowed me to pull up there on the concrete ramp. I devoured my Big Mac, restocked my cooler with ice and G2 which Rob and Lewis had brought for me and launched again at 2:22 pm. At this point I was about 4 hours behind schedule. I was also very grateful for the help from Rob and Lewis. There are no services available here so it would have been a long haul to the next stop to restock.

Next stop Mokane.

Wednesday at Glasgow

Matt and I installing plastic over the bow of the canoe.....
Dianna and I.... Glasgow paddle salute.........





By the time I got my tent set up and ready to take a nap it was about 9:30. I expected to get about 3 hours sleep and Dianna and Matt would wake me when they arrived to resupply me at about noon. However, I couldn’t sleep. I was tired enough but with the daylight, cars going in and out, and folks walking about I just couldn’t sleep. I did lay still and rest but sleep just wouldn’t come.

They have shower facilities at Glasgow so I walked over to the shower house and took my shower. After the clean up I still couldn’t sleep. With Dianna and Matt scheduled to arrive at noon I need to wait for them to restock my cooler and food supply. Once they arrived with my lunch we ate, then put a plastic cover over the front of the canoe to help keep some of the water out and to help cut down on some of the wind it was catching. Matt helped me tear down the tent and repack and I shoved off from Glasgow at about 1:45pm just 15 minutes behind my schedule.

I wasted several hours in an attempt to get some sleep. In hindsight I should have shoved off down river and had Matt and Dianna meet me somewhere else. I could have covered an extra 20 or so miles and they could have caught up with me with little extra road travel for them because of all of the turns the river makes.

Just below Glasgow is Lisbon Bottoms noted for its treacherous cut off. With the high fast current I just stayed to the left side of the river and didn’t even notice the cut off. If one gets sucked into the chute leading to the cut off I understand it gets real interesting.

For the first 15 or 20 miles I had a tail wind and even in the August afternoon the heat was not an issue. It was a grand time to be on the river and this area is one of the most scenic parts of the river we have been on up to this point. With the tail wind and absence of heat I was making some of the best time I ever made on the Missouri River at times my GPS was consistently registering 8 mph. It was during this segment of the river I was able to overtake 6 or 8 boats.

Franklin Island is at the base of the Arrow Rock bluffs which marks about the half way point. Having once lived in Arrow Rock on one of the bluffs overlooking the river I often would look out on the mighty Missouri River and imagine what it would be like to travel on her. At the time I never had any idea I would actually one day be out here solo in a canoe. Including the travels with the Discovery Expedition of St. Charles, the MR 340’s and training runs I have now logged nearly 2,000 miles on the Missouri River.

It was here near the Lamine River and with the approach of nightfall that I was beginning to experience some real fatigue. It’s been nearly 40 hours since I slept and every stroke was becoming a real effort. Not that it hurt or anything just that it took a lot of effort to make each stroke. I attempted to just let the canoe drift but if I let it drift more than a minute it took much more effort to get back into the current.

I decided I would pull out and take a brake when I got to Boonville. When I paddled up to the boat ramp at Boonville there was one power boat tied off at the ramp and it was otherwise vacant. Because of the high water the landing area was covered with sand and debris and I had a very difficult time making the landing but eventually did which took a tremendous amount of labor.

I got out of the canoe and walked around the area for a few minutes and decided to set up my lights for night travel and then proceeded on. Just to get out of the canoe and walk around a bit reenergized me. As darkness fell it cooled off again and I needed an extra layer on my upper body to be comfortable. The canoes were really strung out now and I could see a few in the distance ahead of me when the conditions were right but for the most part I was alone in my section of the river.

I don’t mind traveling alone. In fact it’s very difficult for me to talk with others on the river because of the difficulty I have in hearing them. As a rule when I come into contact with another canoe I tell them right off that I’m hearing impaired because I don’t want them to think I’m rude if I don’t respond to them. Most of the time I just don’t understand what others are saying so it’s just simpler for me to travel alone.

Once the darkness set in I again began experiencing extreme fatigue. If I could have quit the race I would have done so. I thought if I could just get to a boat ramp I would call someone and have them take me home. I was thinking about just tying the canoe off to a limb or something and taking a nap but couldn’t find a good spot to do so. I also thought about landing at Rocheport but then remembered that the boat ramp at Rocheport it about a mile up the Manitou Creek. At this point I didn’t want to paddle an extra 2 miles.

When I passed under the I-70 bridge I knew I was getting close to Katfish Katy’s, which was the next checkpoint at river mile 226. I didn’t know where I was in relation to river mile markers. I attempted to use my spotlight to find the mile markers but once I found them I couldn’t make out the numbers because fog was starting to build and I just couldn’t focus my eyes. I didn’t want to get too close to the river bank for fear of running over a wing dike. I knew in my exhausted state I would most likely swamp it I did encounter the current from one of those underwater wing dikes.

Apparently my spotlight attracted the attention of a safety boat which eased up behind me on the starboard side of my canoe. A couple of Conservation Agents were out there making sure everything was okay. They ask if I intended to stop at Katfish Katys and I made it clear that was my intention if I ever got there. They told me it was about 5 more miles which I found discouraging because I was hoping it would be closer.

At last I could see the light marking the check point at Katfish Katys and I found the energy to land there. A couple of guys at the check point helped me move my canoe up out of the way and I unpacked my tent and went looking for a place to set it up. It was 10:30 and I was actually about an hour ahead of schedule but my sleep bank was totally empty and I would have to sleep before proceeding on.

I found my spot to set up the tent but I just didn’t have the motor skills to get is set up. Its just a small one person backpack tent and usually I can set it up in 2 or 3 minutes but when I would get one end of it secured the other end would fall down. Someone standing nearby saw I was having difficulty and they helped me get the tent up and I crawled in and immediately fell asleep just a few miles from the hollowed ground of the “Kingdom of Callaway”.

Miami Departure

Wednesday 8-25-10 3am

Once I get underway again the little light at Miami quickly disappeared in the distance as I crossed under the bridge. It was just me and Amos (my sandbag ballast) out on the river under the early morning moonlight.

Even if we are alone we know we really are not alone:

Have not I commanded thee? Be strong and of a good courage; be not afraid, neither be thou dismayed: for the LORD thy God [is] with thee whithersoever thou goest. Joshua 1:9

I did eventually catch up with a few others who were out on the river during the early morning hours but like last year it was hard for me to go at the same pace they were going so soon I pulled away from them. I did notice someone had pulled up to the river bank and built a campfire somewhere along this stretch of river and it looked awfully inviting compared to the coolness out on the water.

After a couple of hours I realized that I hadn’t hand any real food since the hot dog back at Waverly and with the chill and dampness of the early morning air it was actually too cool to be comfortable. It seems to always cool off as the sun creeps up in the early morning and this morning was no exception. I put the following post on my facebook page: tired, cold, hungry….appreciate prayers….keep praying…..proceeding on.

I knew some of my brothers in Christ would be checking on my progress and would respond to my request and as the sun rose above the eastern horizon so did my spirits. It’s great to be on the river at sunrise.

With a burst of energy with the new day and the better view of the river and channel markers progress improved and before I could think too much about it I could see the new bridge over the Missouri River at Glasgow. I also noticed a kayak beached on a pile of debris up against one of the bridge pilings. I thought it strange and when I landed at the checkpoint I ask one of the officials how the kayak ended up there and he told me a lady got dumped out when her kayak got tangled up with the debris.

At is turned out what could have been a very bad crash had a good ending. You can read “Goldfishgoddess” account here:
http://rivermiles.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1283050380

If it would have been me that took that spill I’m not sure I would have been as clear headed as she was. Reading of her account of the incident will help me should I ever find myself in a similar circumstance.

I arrived at Glasgow at 8:40 am just 10 minutes behind schedule. Glasgow is a milestone in this marathon canoe race because most of those who drop out will do so before Glasgow. Glasgow is 141 miles from the start which leaves 199 miles to the final check point at the Lewis and Clark boathouse in St. Charles.

With the help of one of the check point volunteers’ I carried my canoe up out of the way and unpacked my tent and gear. I found a shady spot in the park, set up my tent and crawled in for a nap before Dianna and Matt’s expected arrival at about noon. I didn’t know it yet but my plan, which was going very smooth up to this point, was just beginning to fall apart.

Going Rogue

Tuesday Afternoon August 24, 2010

I was at Lexington and about an hour behind schedule but overall very pleased with my progress. I had planned a short break at Lexington and then back on the River for the next stop at Waverly. The trip from Lexington to Waverly was uneventful. The boats had spread out a lot but I did catch up with Pat from the safety meeting and he was disappointed with how his kayak was handling, this being only the third time he had it on water and the first time on the River. I arrived at Waverly at 8:03 pm which was about sunset where this photo was taken.

Waverly was a little more crowded than Lexington but still not as crowded as last year. I purchased a hot dog from the boy scouts. A local guy was there selling his home grown peaches and I purchased a few to take along. I visited with him for awhile and discovered he was a real “River Rat” that had a lot of knowledge about the river. I told him of the constant battle with the wind and he gave me a tip to help keep my canoe going with the current in spite of the wind. I didn’t have what I needed but I did make a mental note to be sure to have the needed supplies for next year in the event the wind is an issue again.

I set the lights up for night travel and headed off downstream for the next check point at Miami . The high fast current we had been hearing about was in fact contributing to the progress I was making and I was very thankful to have the extra boost of about 1 and sometimes up to 2 mph. Once it gets dark (it’s not really that dark with the full moon) the river takes on a new personality.

The trip on into Miami was as uneventful as well. Uneventful may sound boring but never fear river travel at night in a canoe is never boring. There will always be something to keep one on their toes particularly when many of the wing dikes are underwater. The best advice is to just keep the canoe in the middle of the river to avoid any unseen dikes lurking just under the surface.

I arrived at Miami at 1:28am 28 minutes behind my schedule, which I was pleased with. Miami was more crowded than Waverly with many spending the night there. After spend the most of the last 15 or so hours in my canoe I needed to get out and walk around a bit. I had scheduled a half hour stop here but needed more time to walk about. It was much cooler now as well, I dug out my jacket and wool sox to ward off the chill of the early morning.

Very few people were up and about at Miami since most were sleeping and this may be the first time I realized I was on my own hook, alone and unsupported, going rogue as some say. With a partner or ground crew one has the opportunity to discuss various options and get feedback but when one is “going rogue” there is no one to bounce ideas off of. I took an extra hour here to reflect on the challenge and drink a couple of cups of coffee before heading back out onto the cool moonlighted river and shoved off downstream for Glasgow at 3am still a little behind schedule.

To be continued…………….

2010 MR 340

This years MR340 is in the record books and if one goes far enough down the list of those that finished you will find my name. I'm way behind the quickest and just a little ahead of the DNF's.

The race was postponed 28 days because of the high water in July and the date change really decimated the turn out for this years big show. A lot of folks just couldn't manage to work the change into their schedule as evidenced by my own team in the loss of my partner and ground crew. Despite the rescheduling there were more than 200 boats, down from the 340 originally expected. At the safety meeting on Monday night before the race began there was plenty of room to sit close to the front (necessary for the hearing impaired) unlike last year when we had standing room only way off to one side.

Dianna attended the safety meeting with me and she caught just a little bit of the excitement that goes with the race. As the race promoters went thru the high and fast water warnings, fog warnings and the do's, dont's and deadlines we scarfed down the pasta buffet (which was made available to the race teams for an additional charge) with our new friend Pat who was a first timer who had only been out in his kayak two times. After the meeting we headed back to Maysville to make last minute preparations and get some sleep.

The sleep was short as we had to get back on the road before 6am to make connections with Chad, who was going to help us launch "My Dianna", then get down to Kaw Point so we could get the canoe unloaded, packed and on the water before the scheduled start at 8am.

Chad and I unloaded the canoe and arranged my cargo so it would be properly balanced once we got her on the water. With my tent, sleeping gear, food, water, Gatorade and other items in place I still needed a sandbag in the very front to keep my trim where it needed to be. This sandbag became my partner. I drew a face on it, placed some buffalo hair on top and named him Amos after the Old Testament prophet.

As it turned out we had plenty of time and I was on the water waiting for the lady to sing our National Anthem prior to the gun that would start us on our 340 mile river journey. As one is sitting in the canoe surrounded by all the other canoes the realization of the magnitude of this event sinks in with over 200 boats staged to travel 340 miles, the news helicopters overhead and all the people lined on the river bank its an impressive sight. This is a time when doubt slips in and makes one wonder why they are out in murky water surrounded by all the sharp looking canoes and kayaks but then the gun goes off and the only concern is the next paddle stroke.

With the sound of the muskets fired by my good friends from DESC another ultra marathon race is underway. The water is choppy with the other boats and the merging of the Kaw and Missouri Rivers. Once the nose of the craft hits the Missouri River current one can feel the awesome power and the river take control for a few seconds while we adapt to the current. I didn't like the feel when I hit the current so I turned my canoe into the current to get a better feel then did a 180 degree turn to get on with the race. Two of the canoes capsized when they entered the Missouri which I'm sure put a damper on their day.

Once in the Missouri the current was swift and choppy but with the adrenalin boost one has at the start of such an event we made a quick trip thru Kansas City. There is a new bridge under construction and they had half the river blocked with construction barges which still left us with plenty of room to get by but a small boat must be wary of any obstacle's on the river including barges. A few years ago a canoe ran into a stationary barge and was immediately sucked under and came out the other side. Shaken, the crew was able to proceed on once they rescued their stuff and reloaded.

Except for a headwind the weather was perfect for being on the river. Once in a while the sun would pop out but mostly it was overcast which was a tremendous help. With the headwind or even a cross wind it becomes very difficult to take any kind of break from paddling, within moments after the last paddle stroke the canoe nose begins to take off to the right or left which slows one down and requires extra effort to get back in the channel and on stride. This is where having a partner pays bid dividends by allowing one of the paddlers to take a break once in a while for a minute or two.

When I arrive at the first checkpoint at Lexington I'm about an hour behind my schedule but for the most part am very satisfied with the progress. The landing at Lexington was uneventful and compared to last year very few boats were there which allowed for choice landing spots.

More to follow.

Countdown

We are down to the final weekend to prepare for the 2010 MR 340. I plan to get “My Dianna” back out on the local lake this weekend to make some final adjustments to her balance to compensate for my missing partner. I'm going over my list to be sure I don’t leave anything behind that I must have while paddling down the Missouri River. I’m disappointed that I don’t have a partner now, but at the same time I excited about a solo trip.

With the race postponed a month it will create a few new issues for us to deal with such as the earlier sunsets and later sunrise which translates into more hours of darkness and cooler temperatures which is conductive to producing heavy fog. We can deal with the darkness but the fog will put a stop to safe river travel.

There are too many hazards to even consider travel on the river during heavy fog. I can use my GPS to keep the canoe in the middle of the river but it will not pickup the buoys, wing dikes or debris that one must be careful of. Also sound is distorted in the fog (even for the hearing) so something that sounds like it’s on the port side may actually be anywhere. And then there are the barges both moving and stationary. If a heavy fog socks in the only option is to pull over and wait it out which more than likely will be several hours.

Last year we had a ground crew which is a great help but this year we have lost our ground crew too because of the date change. Without a ground crew I will have to carry additional baggage on the canoe so I can support myself. My wife, Dianna, is going to meet me at the 4th checkpoint which will be about 22 to 28 hours and 140 miles into the race to restock my supplies and once close to Callaway County I will get some local support from friends and relatives in the area. So I may not have a full time ground crew but will still have some support.

Last year we did it in 82+ hours so this year I’m shooting for 72 hours if the fog stays away. I will be at least a day behind the winners of my division but I have already decided that I’m going for the adventure not necessarily the win. We will know in a few days.

No partner, no ground crew, no problem!!!!

No partner, no ground crew, no problem!!!!

Just a few days to the postponed start to the big dance and I'm adjusting to a solo and unsupported run down the Missouri River. The date change has caused a lot of issues for a lot of teams but the Son(s) of Auxvasse Creek will continue on despite the loss of my partner and ground crew due to scheduling conflicts. I do have friends and relatives in Central Missouri who might come out and offer a cold drink of water in the Masters name so once I get close to Boonville I should have some ground support for a few hours.

I made a few adjustments and took "My Dianna" out on our local lake today to try to get her trimmed for a solo run. I attempted to simulate the gear and stuff I would have on board for the MR340 and made a couple of trips out on the water to see how it all worked out. I'm close to where I need to be. I going to pack an extra sandbag and move it forward as I consume liquids in an attempt to keep her trimmed and her nose down in the water.

Now down to making a list of the essentials I will need then cutting out about half to get to the actual amount of stuff I will need.

SONS OF AUXVASSE CREEK
MR 340 Projected Schedule
TUESDAY
08/24/10 Lexington trip 50 miles -7 hours -ave speed 7.1- 50 total
in 15:00
out15:30
River Mile 317
TUESDAY
08/24/10 Waverly trip 23 miles- 3hr 30min- ave speed 6.5- 73 total
in 19:00
out 19:30
RM 294

WEDNESDAY
08/25/10 Miami trip 32 miles- 5hr 30min- ave speed 6- 105 total
in 01:00
out 1:30
RM 262
WEDNESDAY
08/25/10 Glasgow trip 36 miles- 7hr- ave speed 5.1- 141 total
in 08:30 *5 hour break
out 13.30
RM 226
WEDNESDAY
07/28/10 Katfish Katy trip 46 miles- 9 hr 30 min- ave speed 5.9- 197 total
in 23:00
out 23:30
RM 180

THURSDAY
07/29/10 JeffCity trip 36 miles- 5 hours- ave speed 5.2- 223 total
in 04:30 *6 hour break
out 10:30
RM 144
(Mokane RM 124.7 may do 30 minute break???)
THURSDAY
07/29/10 Herman trip 46 miles- 9 hours-ave speed 5.1- 269 total
in 19:30 *1 ½ hour break
out 21:00
RM 97.7

FRIDAY
07/30/10 Klondike trip 42 miles- 7hr 30min- ave speed 5.6- 311 total
in 04:30
out 05:30
RM 56
FRIDAY
07/30/10 StCharles trip 28 miles- 4hr 30min-ave speed 6.2- 339 TOTAL
in 10:00
RM 29
74 Hours Total Time
Overall average speed 4.58 mph

Of course the speed of the current, my level of endurance and my mental attitude will impact the actual times but this will be my goal for each checkpoint and I may do a quick stop at Mokane just to step on the firm soil of the Kingdom once again before "We Proceed On".