2010 MR 340

This years MR340 is in the record books and if one goes far enough down the list of those that finished you will find my name. I'm way behind the quickest and just a little ahead of the DNF's.

The race was postponed 28 days because of the high water in July and the date change really decimated the turn out for this years big show. A lot of folks just couldn't manage to work the change into their schedule as evidenced by my own team in the loss of my partner and ground crew. Despite the rescheduling there were more than 200 boats, down from the 340 originally expected. At the safety meeting on Monday night before the race began there was plenty of room to sit close to the front (necessary for the hearing impaired) unlike last year when we had standing room only way off to one side.

Dianna attended the safety meeting with me and she caught just a little bit of the excitement that goes with the race. As the race promoters went thru the high and fast water warnings, fog warnings and the do's, dont's and deadlines we scarfed down the pasta buffet (which was made available to the race teams for an additional charge) with our new friend Pat who was a first timer who had only been out in his kayak two times. After the meeting we headed back to Maysville to make last minute preparations and get some sleep.

The sleep was short as we had to get back on the road before 6am to make connections with Chad, who was going to help us launch "My Dianna", then get down to Kaw Point so we could get the canoe unloaded, packed and on the water before the scheduled start at 8am.

Chad and I unloaded the canoe and arranged my cargo so it would be properly balanced once we got her on the water. With my tent, sleeping gear, food, water, Gatorade and other items in place I still needed a sandbag in the very front to keep my trim where it needed to be. This sandbag became my partner. I drew a face on it, placed some buffalo hair on top and named him Amos after the Old Testament prophet.

As it turned out we had plenty of time and I was on the water waiting for the lady to sing our National Anthem prior to the gun that would start us on our 340 mile river journey. As one is sitting in the canoe surrounded by all the other canoes the realization of the magnitude of this event sinks in with over 200 boats staged to travel 340 miles, the news helicopters overhead and all the people lined on the river bank its an impressive sight. This is a time when doubt slips in and makes one wonder why they are out in murky water surrounded by all the sharp looking canoes and kayaks but then the gun goes off and the only concern is the next paddle stroke.

With the sound of the muskets fired by my good friends from DESC another ultra marathon race is underway. The water is choppy with the other boats and the merging of the Kaw and Missouri Rivers. Once the nose of the craft hits the Missouri River current one can feel the awesome power and the river take control for a few seconds while we adapt to the current. I didn't like the feel when I hit the current so I turned my canoe into the current to get a better feel then did a 180 degree turn to get on with the race. Two of the canoes capsized when they entered the Missouri which I'm sure put a damper on their day.

Once in the Missouri the current was swift and choppy but with the adrenalin boost one has at the start of such an event we made a quick trip thru Kansas City. There is a new bridge under construction and they had half the river blocked with construction barges which still left us with plenty of room to get by but a small boat must be wary of any obstacle's on the river including barges. A few years ago a canoe ran into a stationary barge and was immediately sucked under and came out the other side. Shaken, the crew was able to proceed on once they rescued their stuff and reloaded.

Except for a headwind the weather was perfect for being on the river. Once in a while the sun would pop out but mostly it was overcast which was a tremendous help. With the headwind or even a cross wind it becomes very difficult to take any kind of break from paddling, within moments after the last paddle stroke the canoe nose begins to take off to the right or left which slows one down and requires extra effort to get back in the channel and on stride. This is where having a partner pays bid dividends by allowing one of the paddlers to take a break once in a while for a minute or two.

When I arrive at the first checkpoint at Lexington I'm about an hour behind my schedule but for the most part am very satisfied with the progress. The landing at Lexington was uneventful and compared to last year very few boats were there which allowed for choice landing spots.

More to follow.

Countdown

We are down to the final weekend to prepare for the 2010 MR 340. I plan to get “My Dianna” back out on the local lake this weekend to make some final adjustments to her balance to compensate for my missing partner. I'm going over my list to be sure I don’t leave anything behind that I must have while paddling down the Missouri River. I’m disappointed that I don’t have a partner now, but at the same time I excited about a solo trip.

With the race postponed a month it will create a few new issues for us to deal with such as the earlier sunsets and later sunrise which translates into more hours of darkness and cooler temperatures which is conductive to producing heavy fog. We can deal with the darkness but the fog will put a stop to safe river travel.

There are too many hazards to even consider travel on the river during heavy fog. I can use my GPS to keep the canoe in the middle of the river but it will not pickup the buoys, wing dikes or debris that one must be careful of. Also sound is distorted in the fog (even for the hearing) so something that sounds like it’s on the port side may actually be anywhere. And then there are the barges both moving and stationary. If a heavy fog socks in the only option is to pull over and wait it out which more than likely will be several hours.

Last year we had a ground crew which is a great help but this year we have lost our ground crew too because of the date change. Without a ground crew I will have to carry additional baggage on the canoe so I can support myself. My wife, Dianna, is going to meet me at the 4th checkpoint which will be about 22 to 28 hours and 140 miles into the race to restock my supplies and once close to Callaway County I will get some local support from friends and relatives in the area. So I may not have a full time ground crew but will still have some support.

Last year we did it in 82+ hours so this year I’m shooting for 72 hours if the fog stays away. I will be at least a day behind the winners of my division but I have already decided that I’m going for the adventure not necessarily the win. We will know in a few days.

No partner, no ground crew, no problem!!!!

No partner, no ground crew, no problem!!!!

Just a few days to the postponed start to the big dance and I'm adjusting to a solo and unsupported run down the Missouri River. The date change has caused a lot of issues for a lot of teams but the Son(s) of Auxvasse Creek will continue on despite the loss of my partner and ground crew due to scheduling conflicts. I do have friends and relatives in Central Missouri who might come out and offer a cold drink of water in the Masters name so once I get close to Boonville I should have some ground support for a few hours.

I made a few adjustments and took "My Dianna" out on our local lake today to try to get her trimmed for a solo run. I attempted to simulate the gear and stuff I would have on board for the MR340 and made a couple of trips out on the water to see how it all worked out. I'm close to where I need to be. I going to pack an extra sandbag and move it forward as I consume liquids in an attempt to keep her trimmed and her nose down in the water.

Now down to making a list of the essentials I will need then cutting out about half to get to the actual amount of stuff I will need.

SONS OF AUXVASSE CREEK
MR 340 Projected Schedule
TUESDAY
08/24/10 Lexington trip 50 miles -7 hours -ave speed 7.1- 50 total
in 15:00
out15:30
River Mile 317
TUESDAY
08/24/10 Waverly trip 23 miles- 3hr 30min- ave speed 6.5- 73 total
in 19:00
out 19:30
RM 294

WEDNESDAY
08/25/10 Miami trip 32 miles- 5hr 30min- ave speed 6- 105 total
in 01:00
out 1:30
RM 262
WEDNESDAY
08/25/10 Glasgow trip 36 miles- 7hr- ave speed 5.1- 141 total
in 08:30 *5 hour break
out 13.30
RM 226
WEDNESDAY
07/28/10 Katfish Katy trip 46 miles- 9 hr 30 min- ave speed 5.9- 197 total
in 23:00
out 23:30
RM 180

THURSDAY
07/29/10 JeffCity trip 36 miles- 5 hours- ave speed 5.2- 223 total
in 04:30 *6 hour break
out 10:30
RM 144
(Mokane RM 124.7 may do 30 minute break???)
THURSDAY
07/29/10 Herman trip 46 miles- 9 hours-ave speed 5.1- 269 total
in 19:30 *1 ½ hour break
out 21:00
RM 97.7

FRIDAY
07/30/10 Klondike trip 42 miles- 7hr 30min- ave speed 5.6- 311 total
in 04:30
out 05:30
RM 56
FRIDAY
07/30/10 StCharles trip 28 miles- 4hr 30min-ave speed 6.2- 339 TOTAL
in 10:00
RM 29
74 Hours Total Time
Overall average speed 4.58 mph

Of course the speed of the current, my level of endurance and my mental attitude will impact the actual times but this will be my goal for each checkpoint and I may do a quick stop at Mokane just to step on the firm soil of the Kingdom once again before "We Proceed On".

13 days

But let judgment run down as waters, and righteousness as a mighty stream. Amos 5:24 KJV
The river is still high but seems to be going down. If the wing dikes are underwater it could make for some interesting night travel.

Here we are counting down the last few days, again. Kyle couldn't change his vacation, Jeff has other obligations, Chris can't change vacation either, the other Chris has to go to a meeting, Tom will be Seattle, Chad will be starting class and Matt will be away at school. I do have a couple of other options out, we just need to see if Steve or Glenn can make it work. Otherwise, I will go solo.

Next I need to recruit a new ground crew. We will have to see what shakes out the next few days.

"Well blow me down!" -- Popeye

Last year the MR340 was delayed by 90 minutes because of a storm, this year it is being delayed 28 days because of a storm. Because of all the rainfall we have had here in the Midwest and the releases from the dams up river the Mighty Missouri has been flooding or running near bank full all spring and summer. Last night about 4 inches of rain fell in the Chariton River valley and that has pushed her above flood stage so (ironically) the MR340 is being postponed because of too much water.

This is the right decision. With 300 plus canoes and kayaks on the river in flood conditions it wouldn’t take much to create some tragic events. With the high water most of the boat ramps will be underwater as well as the levies and the buoys. Then add in night travel on a flood stage river and one comes up with even more obstacles.

A lot of effort has been made for next weeks race both by the promoters and the entrants and many of the entrants will be inconvenienced but we won’t be having any funerals at sea. My schedule is pretty flexible but I know Kyle has to put in for his vacation well in advance so it is to be determined if he can reschedule next month. Our ground crew has other obligations so we will need to find a new ground crew.

As Popeye would say “It is what it is”!

The Big Show Starts in 11 days

We are getting down to the final planning stages for this years MR340. We need to check over our gear, supplies and equipment to be sure we have everything we need but not more than we need. I seem to always take more than I will need so I am attempting to downsize this year. I'm going to leave my tool box at home and instead take a pair of pliers and duct tape. We will have to see what other necessities I can leave behind to make ourselves and our canoe more efficient.

We will need to get "My Dianna" out of the barn and wash her off real good and then give her a good coat of wax to make sure her bottom is smooth and slick. The Missouri River is running high and fast right now and it appears the water levels may remain high for the race so with the swift current and smooth slick canoe bottom we should be able to cut some hours off of last years time.

We have done all we can do to prepare our bodies for the exertion it will require to get downstream. All of the workouts and bike rides will get us headed the right direction but its the mind that one must overcome to complete this ultra marathon canoe race. Its when we begin to wonder why is it that we are out here on the dark river with sore hands, back and bottom fighting misquotes, leg cramps and drinking warm water that the race is won or lost. Everyone that glides their canoe onto the beach at the Lewis and Clark boat house in St. Charles knows the triumph of high achievement and even if they place in the second hundred they are a winner because they have accomplished what few have even attempted.

Teddy Roosevelt said it best:

In the battle of life, it is not the critic who counts; nor the one who points out how the strong person stumbled, or where the doer of a deed could have done better.

The credit belongs to the person who is actually in the arena; whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly; who errs and comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; who does actually strive to do deeds; who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotion, spends oneself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement; and who at worst, if he or she fails, at least fails while daring greatly.

Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those timid spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.

Race to the Dome

SONS OF AUXVASSE CREEK

Race to the Dome

JULY 3, 2010

Matt and I left Maysville at 4:04am Saturday and headed to Hartsburg which is the starting point for the Race to the Dome. We arrived at the Hartsburg Missouri River access at about 7:50 and unloaded our canoe and got her ready for the river. The finish line is actually Cedar City which is 16 miles downstream and across the river from Jefferson City and the state capitol building (which has a dome).

Our good friends Tom and Joy Young from Auxvasse met us there to shuttle our vehicle to the finish line. Tom and I both competed in the MR 340 last year but on different teams. I had a MR 340 skull and crossbones decal on my canoe from last years MR 340. The fact that we (actually it was Chad and I) had competed in the 340 last year created instant creditability for the Sons of Auxvasse Creek. A few other 340 boats were in this particular race as well but most had only heard about it or wished they could do it.

This would be the first time Matt and I had paddled on the Missouri River . We have canoed on the Auxvasse Creek and on a local lake but this would be our first time with a steady current. This took a particular amount of courage from Matt because the last time he and I had this canoe on the water I swamped him.

Unlike the MR 340 this race started in heats based on the class each team was entered in. Our class (men’s tandem) had 18 entries and was the second heat. When the MR 340 starts in Kansas City in a few days all 340 boats will start at once. Of course in a 340 mile race starting position is not as critical as it is in a 16 mile race.

When attempting to maximize ones speed on the Missouri River it is important to find the channel because that is where the best current will usually be. With the present high water conditions even the slow part of the river is faster than usual but it is still better to be in the channel.

At the start Matt and I headed downstream and across the river with a group of about 7 or 8 boats. The other boats just headed downstream which looks like it would be quicker but the extra push from the current more than makes up for the added distance once one gets in the channel which is usually at the outside of the bends in the river. In this 16 mile stretch we will need to cross sides 5 times to stay in the channel.

There seemed to be more whirlpools than usual and they can throw a canoe off course. When we would see one of the canoes ahead of us do an unusual move we would either try to avoid that piece of water or power thru it. This strategy paid off for us. While they were attempting recover we were able to paddle by them.

At about 5 miles out it was apparent that 5 canoes would be contending for the lead of our heat. A 16 mile river race would have to be considered a sprint. We didn’t paddle all out all of the time but we did frequently. Our maximum speed was 11.6 mph which is quick for a 2 person canoe on the Missouri River .

By this time we were catching up with some of the slower canoes from the first heat and we were being passed by some of the faster kayaks that started in the heat behind us so it was difficult to tell for sure what position we were in. I thought we were in 3rd place about 50 yards behind the next tandem canoe. Matt and I made a charge on the canoe ahead of us and they responded by picking up the pace. We couldn’t close the gap so we backed down to our regular pace and followed them on in to the finish line which was pretty chaotic with the current, other craft landing and taking off, high water and mud. I was pleased to finish in 1:51 with an average speed of 8.6 mph and in what looked to me to be 3rd place.

Matt has more strength than me but I have a lot more river experience so we made a good team. When we were doing those sprints I could feel the benefit of all of those push ups and sit ups I have been doing these past months. Once the MR 340 gets underway the extended bicycle trips should benefit when it gets down to endurance both physical and mental. The Race to the Dome was mostly power but the MR 340 will be about 30% power, 40% endurance and 65% mental.

After landing and loading our canoe up for the trip home we waited around for the awards ceremony. The Old Brickhouse deli was serving food to the participants so we had our polish sausage and kraut for lunch. While we were waiting around the “dragon boat” arrived for a test run from Jefferson City to Herman which is about 50 river miles.

The dragon boat is a new canoe that has 20 paddlers and a helmsman built to specifically compete in the MR 340 this year. She is a good looking watercraft. They had two openings on her for paddlers for the test run and it was tempting for Matt and me to take a ride on her. I would guess they could get that canoe up to 20 or 25 mph with the fast current and 20 paddlers. The dragon boat should set a new race record for the MR 340.

When the officials passed out the awards we were pleasantly surprised to find we actually finished 2nd in our class. Matt and I are looking forward to next year.

Next event: MR340 start at Kaw Point in Kansas City , Ks. @ 8am, July 27.

2010 MR 340 Test Run

Kyle and I launched “My Dianna” from the Kaw Point ramp in Kansas City, Kansas yesterday morning with the downtown Kansas City, Missouri skyline in the background. The launch ramp was nearly underwater and what wasn’t under water was covered in mud due to the high waters.

Once we were out in the Kaw the water was smooth but at the confluence we encountered our first of many whirlpools and some rough water. The current was moving fast and we quickly lost sight of the Kansas City skyline. The water was dingy but mostly debris free. The high water has cleaned every thing out except for the mud left behind.

We did face some stiff headwinds (nothing comparable to the Washington, Mo headwinds of last year) from time to time but all in all it was a very pleasant trip. While coasting with the current we could run 4 to 5 mph and with very little effort we could attain 7mph. Our average speed for the 30 mile trip was 6.5 mph and our maximum was over 12 mph.

Our canoe was the only craft on the river other than a sand barge which put up a nice wake for us to navigate. It will be much different on July 27 when 340 boats depart Kaw Point.

Chad was our shuttle driver and he was waiting for us at Ft. Osage where we landed on the mud covered boat ramp. It was a smooth ride and if the river is as fast for the MR 340 that dragon boat may get up to 25 mph while many of the others will set personal best for the 340 mile race.

warm up run

Kyle and I are going to do a warm up run on the Missouri River on Wednesday. Hope to put in at Kaw Point and paddle to Fort Osage. With the high water and fast current we may not have to paddle much but we need the seat time which will payoff when the big show starts.

KATY 257

Tom and I completed our ride of the KATY trail from Clinton to St. Charles this morning. It is actually 225 miles but we took a few food detours. I would have to say the bike ride was more demanding than the MR340. Tom says the MR340 was more demanding but his team did it in about 20 some fewer hours than we did. Our photo was taken where the KATY goes over the Auxvasse Creek near its mouth.

If you are interested in the KATY ride you can check out Tom's blog at: http://bigmuddyriver.wordpress.com/

first river trip of 2010

Kyle and I made our first run on the Missouri River Sunday. We covered 15 miles in about 2 hours and 20 minutes despite a strong wind out of the south. The river was up so the current was good. At one point we were moving at 11.3mph. We had the river to ourselves other than being buzzed by the Blue Angels.

2010 Test Run

Kyle and I took a quick test run on a local lake last night. All went very well. We were experiencing some strong winds here in northwest Missouri which added an additional element to our test run. We paddled out about a mile and then back. On the way back into the wind I broke my paddle. It was one of my bent shaft paddles so I hated to break it but it was better here than on the river. I had a spare so we were able to proceed on. We hope to get in a test run from St Joseph to Atchison, Ks in a few days to get in our first river run of this year.

The Final Day

My hands showing 17 blisters and the GPS showing 339.8 miles.

Photo taken by Betty at the finish line, Chad, Russ and Jeff

If you are just beginning to read this blog it might make more sense if you began at the bottom or the older post.

The Final Day!

Just like the previous mornings we are up after about a 4 hour nap. Except, this morning there is a sense of urgency to get the canoe back on the water. We can smell the finish line and can anticipate the feeling of accomplishment that will overtake us as we make our final landing in about 60 miles. It’s hard to imagine that we have already traveled 280 miles on the Mighty Missouri River. Thanks to the excellent support of Jeff we were able to leave our tent and supplies behind knowing he would load them up and meet us in St. Charles.

I don’t remember the time when we launched from Washington but it was shortly after daybreak. We carried the canoe down to the rivers edge and slipped back into our routine of paddling always trying to stay in the best current to maximize our efforts. For breakfast we feasted on left over pizza. It was almost as good cold as it was when Terry delivered it to us at Mokane about 12 hours ago.

This is a scenic section of the river as well and we were able to take in the beauty of Mother Natures despite the Corps of Engineers handiwork. At this point I have become less alert and I don’t remember a lot of the details until we rounded the big bend in the River as we approached Washington, MO.

As soon as we cleared the bend we could see the bridge over the river and the marina and big landing area at Washington which was still about 3 or4 miles away which should take us about 50 minutes to reach. We didn’t anticipate the big wind that would be blowing upstream. The current was moving at about 4 mph here and the wind must have been blowing nearly 20mph. Had I known about this section of the river and how difficult it would have been to fight the wind these 3 or 4 miles I think I would have insisted that we proceed on instead of taking our nap in Herman last night.

Each time we took a break from paddling the breeze would catch our canoe turn it broadside to the wind and start sending us back towards Kansas City. We attempted to get as close to the bank as possible thinking there would be some protection from the wind there but we found that was not the case. We thought about getting out to tow the canoe but the bank was too steep and once we came along the rock levies the footing was too uncertain. So we just paddled and paddled and paddled. This was no doubt the most difficult 3 miles of the entire trip.

We could plainly see the bridge and boat ramp and it seemed to almost never change position. I can’t say for sure how long it took us to paddle that stretch of the river but once we arrived at the Washington boat ramp we took an unscheduled break. After landing the canoe we walked up to the visitors center and around the area just to get away from the water and wind for a few minutes. It’s just a few miles from Washington to Klondike, which is the last checkpoint before St. Charles, so we head back out on the river to check in at Klondike. As a rule there are food vendors at the check points but we were far enough behind that they were about sold out. We purchased warm Gatorade, peaches and a candy bar and put back in the current at 4pm for the final 28 mile dash for the Lewis and Clark boathouse.

This was the fastest segment of the river as well as the most populated area. We were beginning to see a lot of recreational boaters. We had seen a few along the way but far more were active here. We had one boater who must have thought it would be fun to play chicken with our canoe. He bore down on us in his 100 something horsepower speed boat turning away just ahead of our bow to be sure we got the entire benefit of his wake. Most boaters were courteous of our canoe but this guy needed to make up for something he was lacking with his big boat. I wish we would have had a bow piece (canon) like was on the Keelboat.

Despite the arrogance of the boater we managed the wake very well. Most of the time my GPS was recording speeds of 8 to 10 mph thru this area of the river. We had the extra current from all of the other rivers and streams plus the adrenaline rush one experiences when a difficult challenge is about to be mastered.

Soon the I-70 Bridge over the Missouri River is in sight. About 82 hours ago we began this adventure 1 ½ hours behind schedule. Since we started 1 ½ hours behind schedule I figured the banquet at the finish line would be delayed by 1 ½ hours as well which meant we would arrive at the finish line in time for the banquet. I knew many of my DESC friends were cooking the meal and had great expectations for some exceedingly good food.

Once we were past the bridge and the casino the boat house was in full view and be began our approach for our final landing just as the sun was setting which seemed very appropriate. In anticipation of this moment I had put on my “round hat” which was part of my official 1804 dress blue uniform while doing the Lewis and Clark reenactment. Not only is the hat round but it has a bear fur strip about 3” wide that runs over the top of the hat from front to back and a deer tail mounted on the left side. So it is quite fancy and I thought it good to wear it as we landed at the Lewis and Clark boathouse.

As we approached the landing Chad asks “Pop what do you think”? I had quit thinking several hours ago so it was difficult for me to respond but I did manage to get out something like we are a great team and we work well together. We guided the canoe up on the beach there at the finish line to a modest round of applause from the few folks watching the best of the worst make their final landing.

The crew of “Itswoot” had been there for a day but they came down to the riverfront to congratulate us. We headed to the boathouse to chow down on some of that famous DESC bar-b-que but to our disappointment it was all gone. They didn’t delay the banquet 1 ½ hours like I had anticipated. So with empty stomachs we took a shower there at the boathouse, loaded our gear on my truck and went to the Trailhead and ate fish with the “Itswoot” crew and Jeff who had helped support both boats. It was a fitting end for the adventure.

Heave Ho Herman

PART 3

As we continued down river into the darkness we had pretty much fallen into a routine which propelled us on to our goal of St. Charles . Tonight our goal was Herman and as we paddled out of Callaway County one of the old jodies from our river travels with the Discovery Expedition of St. Charles came to mind:

Oh the Callaway women ain’t got no combs
Haul away, haul away
They comb their hair with catfish bones.
And we’re bound away to Louisiana.

Of course we were bound for Herman at the time so we gave a Heave Ho and made some of the best time we had since beginning the journey. We also came to the realization that no one had passed us since we left Glasgow which seemed like a long time ago and that we were passing every canoe in sight. Granted the fastest were so far ahead of us that some were actually done by now and others were so far ahead we would never see them until we reached to final destination but at this point we were the best of the worst. This trend continued for the rest of the journey.

A couple of times during the night we caught up with others who were traveling by moonlight. It is a common practice to band together during darkness to help each other identify any possible dangers as a group. For Chad and I the pace was too slow and every time we caught up with a group we would become impatient and take off on our own.

This may have been my favorite segment of the trip. We knew we were going to finish and now what had began as a race had evolved into an adventure. There are 300 some million souls in the United States of America and we were part of a very small elite group out on the Missouri River in a tiny boat communing with nature in all of her glory while the rest of America was sleeping. It was very quiet except for the occasional splash of one of our paddles or a low flying aircraft. It was one of those moments when if talking became necessary one would talk in whispers (or at least those that hear well would). With Chad, now a father of a son and a daughter to soon make her appearance we had conservations as equals dad to dad not as father and son about the hopes we had for our children. We also talked about our spiritually and beliefs. No doubt, in any other environment conversations we would have never had.

Even when we were in the darkest part of the river we could still see anything that seemed out of place on the water but we were having difficulty finding the channel markers which are reflective and show up very well when a spot light is pointed at them. However, our light was loosing its charge and we were limited to using it only for brief moments until it eventually died. Even without the light we managed to navigate very well by referring to the GPS.

Soon we could see the bridge over the Missouri River at Herman and from landing there with the Discovery Expedition I knew the Herman checkpoint would be just past the bridge. We made our landing at the Herman boat ramp at 1:41am and found our tent which Jeff had set up for us and we lay down there next to the train tracks to take a nap in spite of the trains. Our plan was to be back on the river before daylight for the final dash. If I would have known what the next day had in store for us I might have passed on the nap at Herman and insisted that we proceed on into the night.

When thou passest through the waters, I will be with thee; and through the rivers, they shall not overflow thee.... Isaiah 43:2a KJV

Homecoming

Part 2

We departed Coopers Landing approximately 49 hours after beginning this adventure. At this point we had traveled 197 miles down the 19th century “highway to the mountains”. When we left Coopers we were definitely a different crew than the one that left Kaw point a couple of days ago. We were much more comfortable with the canoe, we had a rhythm going with our paddle strokes and I was figuring out how to guide the canoe by shifting my weight.

We were about to enter the boundary waters of The Kingdom of Callaway so we needed to be at our peek for the good of the Kingdom. I’m not exactly sure where we entered the waters of Callaway County but somewhere between Coopers and Jefferson City we made the transition. The water was pretty calm and it was becoming more scenic once we got away from the levies along the river. I’m sure we passed some scenic areas above this point but more than likely it was after dark.

As we approached Jefferson City we came upon a sand bar where we took a little break to get out and stretch our legs and take a leak. It’s a pleasure to stand up and take a leak after doing so while sitting in the canoe being careful to direct the flow into a container. Its like they say, “It’s the simple pleasures one misses”. With the water just a few inches deep it gives the appearance of walking on water as we drag the canoe to higher ground of the sand bar. We also met a sand barge in this area and instead to pulling to shore we just rode out the wake. The wake was mild and we managed it quite well. I’m confident a couple of days ago we would have swamped.

We arrived at Jefferson City at about 3:10. In 2005 when we were returning the Lewis and Clark Keelboat back to St. Louis we spent a night camped on the Keelboat at this exact spot. That night was a particularly cool night and the river rose about 3 feet during the night. At Jeff City, Casey, my son & Chad ’s brother who was the other survivor of terrifying trip on the Auxvasse Creek years ago, was waiting for us with his mother with fresh food. I can’t remember exactly what it was but it sure hit the spot. As usual we stretched our legs refilled our water jugs and cooler but this time we were walking on the good earth of Callaway County with a panoramic view of the state capitol across the river.

We heard from the folks manning the checkpoint there would be a huge asphalt barge coming up in a little while so we put back into the river to get a few miles in before the beast appeared. We did make it few miles when we saw the barge approaching so we pulled in on a island and let her pass. It did churn up the water quite a bit but once it was past we set of again. There was still some rebound wakes on the water but they didn’t pose a problem for us. We planned to take a break at Mokane which is about 20 miles below Jeff City . Mokane would be our last chance to resupply before Herman which was about 50 miles downstream.

My brother, Terry, operates “Wright Brothers Store” in Calwood which is about 15 miles from Mokane so I called in an order on my cell phone for one of their famous pizzas, Gatorade and ice to be delivered to the Mokane boat ramp at about 8pm. I’m not sure he believed me when I told him Chad and I would be arriving there by canoe but he was there with the pizza and drinks. We had a nice visit with Terry and his wife while eating the pizza. This was our last stop in the Kingdom. We iced down our cooler and packed up the left over pizza for later and slid “My Dianna” back into the murky waters of the Missouri and resumed our paddle strokes. Just as it was getting dark we passed the mouth of the Auxvasse Creek and with a solemn nod to her we passed into our 3rd night on the peaceful Missouri River.

For this is what the LORD says: I will extend peace to her like a river...Isaiah 66:12a

To be continued.

No Atheist In Lisbon Bottoms

2009 MR 340

The river race from Kansas City to St. Charles began one and a half hours behind schedule because of rain. Seems strange to delay a race on the water because of rain! I guess it was the lightning that actually caused the delay. Once the race starts it will continue until the end despite the weather circumstance. The rainfall cooled off an August morning which always has the potential to be very hot.

Chad and I paddled our Kevlar Wenonah Escapade canoe, named MY DIANNA, out into the Kansas River and pulled in behind “Its woot” which was paddled by our good friends from the Discovery Expedition of St. Charles. It was our intent to draft on them for awhile but it was difficult for the two of us to maintain the pace of six paddlers and after a few miles they paddled out of our sight.

We had done a couple of practice runs on the Missouri and we were concerned with our ability to keep the sleek Escapade upright. It is designed for performance not necessary for a couple of occasional paddlers. To ensure the stability of the canoe we added outriggers which really made her stable and would actually allow us to stand up. As with all things there are always consequences. To gain the stability we gave up speed which became painfully obvious to us as canoes passed us continuously the first few hours

Some of the roughest water we encountered was at the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri Rivers . I don’t know if the rough water was because of the storms that morning, the two rivers coming together or all the canoes on the water. It was good to experience the rough water at the beginning because it gave us confidence in maintaining our canoes stability. However, I think we may have swamped at least once without the outriggers.

It’s pretty cool to paddle on the Missouri River with a fleet of other boats with folks lined up along the downtown Kansas City banks of the river to cheer us on, news helicopters flying overhead and cars stopped along the highway to watch us. It’s even cooler to be on the river where there is absolutely no other person around anywhere.

Most successful paddlers participating in the MR340 have a ground crew following along on land to provide food, drinks and supplies as they progress down the river. For our first two days Chad and I were supported by Wayne and his son Ethan. They made sure we had what we needed while we were on the river. Wayne is a Kansas City resident now but like us he grew up just a short distance from the Auxvasse Creek in the Kingdom of Callaway so it seems very appropriate for him and his son to support the “Sons of Auxvasse Creek” on this attempt to do what few have accomplished.

Our first checkpoint was at Lexington which is about 50 miles from the start. We landed our canoe along the very crowded bank, got out stretched our legs, ate, refilled our water jugs and cooler and raised the outriggers. The outriggers had done their job but we needed to gain some speed which means we need to keep the outriggers out of the water. The water was much calmer now and we were beginning to get a feel for each other and the canoe. It would be dark by the time we got to the next checkpoint so we set up our lights for night travel.

The next stretch of water takes us to Waverly which is about 75 miles from the starting point. We arrive after 10pm. Again its crowded we stretch our legs, get something to eat, refill our drinks and head back out into the dark. Night on the river is fantastic. With the full moon one can see much better than one would imagine. By this time I’m having blister problems on my hands. I was wearing construction gloves which offered good protection but once they got wet they stayed wet which made my hands tender. I was also beginning to feel some serious pain in my shoulders. I had anticipated shoulder problems so I got cortisone shots on both sides on Monday. I was beginning to think my shoulders were going to seize up. We arrived at our overnight camp at Miami at about 3:30 am. It was great to see our tent up thanks to Wayne and Ethan. I spread out on my air mattress and the next thing I know its 8am.

I knew I would be dealing with shoulder issues when I got up but that was not the case. I had absolutely no discomfort. It could have been the shots were kicking in but I think it had more to do with prayers from a few of my brothers in Christ who were praying for me and following along on Twitter. I didn’t have any trouble with my shoulders for the rest of the trip. It’s amazing how good one can feel after four hours of sleep.

The Miami Lions Club was cooking pancakes and sausage for breakfast so we purchased our breakfast drank down a couple of cups of coffee and headed back to the canoe. We decided to take the outriggers off and much refreshed we launched back into the current of the Missouri River . Our next stop would be Glasgow which is a significant milestone because nearly everyone that drops out of the race does so before Glasgow . Not that I had any doubts but it would be reassuring to get that behind us.

I was having some issues with an underarm rash so we phoned ahead to Wayne and Ethan and ask that they try to find some baby lotion. We arrived in Glasgow at about 4pm where we took an hour break and restocked our supplies. This would be the last time Wayne and his son would meet up with us. They were going to go ahead to Coopers Landing to set up our tent then go home. A fellow Lewis and Clark re-enactor Jeff Troupe from Nebraska would be our ground crew for the rest of the trip. Jeff was helping with “Its woot” as well and we ran him ragged taking care of both boats since they were way ahead of us. Jeff was also Chad's backup. Chad and his wife were expecting their 2nd child, first daughter, any time. In the event his wife went into labor Jeff was going to replace Chad. The little lady is a sweetheart and she waited until we were home to make her appearance.

Just a few miles below Glasgow are Lisbon Bottoms which is noted for being a treacherous stretch of water. There are T-Shirts available which note “There are no Atheist in Lisbon Bottoms”. We travel thru Lisbon Bottoms with no difficulty other than running up on a sand bar which was no real issue. Shortly after Lisbon Bottoms is Franklin Island which is at the base of the bluffs at Arrow Rock which represents the halfway mark for the trip. At about dark we were traveling with a small group of other paddlers when I noticed the canoe in front of us took an immediate left turn which seemed strange. As we approached the area our canoe did the same thing as the current from the Lamine River caught us and gave us a push sideways.
The stretch of water from Glasgow to Coopers was one of the longest of the trip. Most of it was after dark and it was thru this area that I experienced some uncanny visions. I discovered later that a lot of people experienced similar visions late at night due in part to the fatigue and the strange shadows from the moon and the trees on the river. More than once I could see a large ship (similar to the black pearl) out in my peripheral vision but when I would turn to look at it she wouldn’t be there.

We arrived at Coopers Landing at about 4am. I found our tent and went right to sleep. At Coopers one can get a shower for $2.00 so Chad thought he needed a shower before going to bed. Someone was in the shower and one was waiting so he paid the $2.00 and took his place in line. Seems someone was really dirty because they took about 45 minutes in the shower despite the knocks on the door and the proprietors asking him to cut it short. I waited till after my 4 hour nap to take my shower. We had a great bacon and egg sandwich and coffee for breakfast restocked and headed back down the river. Jeff would take down our tent and move it to our next stop at Herman.

More later.

Be flexible

My son Chad who was my partner last year in the MR340 can’t make it work this year so I needed to recruit a new member for the Sons of Auxvasse Creek team. One of my brothers in Christ and fellow Lewis & Clark re-enactor, Kyle Carroll, has joined up to do what few have attempted. This photo was taken at Pompey’s Pillar in Montana on the Yellowstone River in July of 2006 200 years after Wm. Clark carved his name in the face of the big rock.

workin out

I’ve been doing my push up, sit-ups and squats as well a working on the bow flex thing trying to keep all the joints and muscles tuned up. I got in my longest bike ride of this year 17 miles which takes me to 160 miles YTD. The cold and early darkness hampers the bike workout but July will be here soon so need to keep at it. Hope to get in a few century rides before July because strength is good but endurance is what moves the canoe after the first 12 hours.

Our Logo

Our Logo is an image of one of the few pictographs Native Americans left behind which actually depict people in a canoe. The blue letters represent the waters that carry us around the next bend.

Why Sons of Auxvasse Creek

I grew up in Calwood, Missouri (known as the Crossroad of the World) located in the Kingdom of Callaway near the center of the state of Missouri in Callaway County the only county north of the Missouri River to succeed from the Union during the Civil War. Callaway County wasn’t admitted back to the state until after 1900 hence, “The Kingdom of Callaway".

Calwood is where most of my relatives still live. One of my older brothers lives on the farm our ancestors moved to in 1855 and another older brother and my little brother own and operate Wright Brothers Store. They were the third generation in the store until recently a nephew joined the operation to represent the 4th generation since 1916 and a great nephew is working parttime to represent the 5th generation. My sisters live nearby as well and my hero and oldest brother is buried there in the cemetery.

Anyway, The Auxvasse Creek is the primary watershed east of Calwood and Crows Fork Creek is the primary watershed west of Calwood. The Auxvasse and Crows Fork creeks join south of Calwood to form the Missouri River. As a kids in a small (about 40 people) town we would spend a lot of time at the Auxvasse Creek fishing, swimming or for some of the kids that’s where they took their baths. If we went east of Calwood it was about a mile to the creek, if we went south it was about 3 miles or north it was about 3 miles as well. We could ride our bikes, walk or hitchhike when the trucks were hauling out creek gravel. As we got older we often went to the Auxvasse Creek after hauling hay (the small square bales) to wash off the sweat and hay residue.

The Auxvasse Creek is where they baptized folks that joined New Hope or Unity Baptist churches. Those joining Ebenezer were baptized in the Crows Fork Creek. The Auxvasse Creek has several holes, which is where the water stays when the creek is down or not running. There is the Dunn Hole, Ice House Hole, Horseshoe Bend, Grave Yard Hole and the Austin Hole. The Austin Hole is still one of my favorite spots in the world.

It was near the Grave Yard Hole that I nearly drowned my two oldest sons and myself in July of 1982. I was 32 and they were 9 and 7. It was the most terrifying experience of my life. The creek was up and we were in a canoe, when we came around a bend in the creek a tree had fallen across the creek which forced the water to go under the tree. We couldn’t get out of the current and when the canoe hit the tree our canoe did a 180 degree flip. I was in the back and the boys in the front. The current swept me away and I came up about 30 yards down stream. The boys were no where in sight.

I swam to the bank got out and ran downstream trying to find my boys. I didn’t go far until I decided they couldn’t be that far away. I began running back to where the canoe was when my oldest son popped up out in the creek. I dove in and brought him to shore. He was OK, I ask him if he had seen his little brother (looking back that was a stupid question) to which he replied no. But soon he said he could see his little brother’s hands reaching out from under the canoe which was wedged beneath the tree. He was trapped under the canoe. I dove in to retrieve him at about the same time the current washed him out. I did manage to catch up with him and get him out as well. He was OK as well. The canoe suffered some damage but we were OK if you don’t count the nightmares that followed for the next few years.

All of that to get to why “Sons of Auxvasse Creek”, it seems a fitting name for a team that was spit up out of her muddy waters. My oldest son and I completed the MR340 in 2009 while the other survivor of that July, 1982 experience brought food to us.

Here is where the trail starts

I have traveled about 2,500 miles on the Mississippi, Missouri, Grand and Yellowstone Rivers as a member of the Discovery Expedition of St. Charles in addition to my MR340 travels. My favorite time on the Missouri River was experienced while traveling upstream in the White Pirogue near Ft Osage when we raised the sail and were propelled against the mighty current of the Missouri by the breath of God.

In the last few years I have traveled about 10,000 miles on my Fuji bicycle. I just enjoy propelling myself while traveling life’s trails.

I have also traveled around the track at Kansas Speedway in a 600 hp Chevrolet at 136mph and had the opportunity to travel aboard a 72,000 pound C130H aircraft. And as an operator of a $2 million M88 tank recovery vehicle I have traveled over very rough terrain.

--Another road I have traveled--The ROMAN ROAD....is a road you can travel. It is a group of Bible verses from the book of Romans in the New Testament. If you travel this road you will end up understanding how to be saved.

Romans 3:23 "For all have sinned and fall short of the glory of God."We all have sin in our hearts. We all were born with sin. We were born under the power of sin's control.- Admit that you are a sinner.

Romans 6:23a "...The wages of sin is death..." Sin has an ending. It results in death. We all face physical death, which is a result of sin. But a worse death is spiritual death that alienates us from God, and will last for all eternity. The Bible teaches that there is a place called the Lake of Fire where lost people will be in torment forever. It is the place where people who are spiritually dead will remain.- Understand that you deserve death for your sin.

Romans 6:23b "...But the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord." Salvation is a free gift from God to you! You can't earn this gift, but you must reach out and receive it.- Ask God to forgive you and save you.

Romans 5:8, "God demonstrates His own love for us, in that while we were yet sinners Christ died for us!"When Jesus died on the cross He paid sin's penalty. He paid the price for all sin, and when He took all the sins of the world on Himself on the cross, He bought us out of slavery to sin and death! The only condition is that we believe in Him and what He has done for us, understanding that we are now joined with Him, and that He is our life. He did all this because He loved us and gave Himself for us!- Give your life to God... His love poured out in Jesus on the cross is your only hope to have forgiveness and change. His love bought you out of being a slave to sin. His love is what saves you -- not religion, or church membership. God loves you!

Romans 10:13 "Whoever will call on the name of the Lord will be saved!" - Call out to God in the name of Jesus!Romans 10:9,10 "...If you confess with your mouth Jesus as Lord, and believe in your heart that God raised Jesus from the dead, you shall be saved; for with the heart man believes, resulting in righteousness, and with the mouth he confesses, resulting in salvation."- If you know that God is knocking on your heart's door, ask Him to come into your heart.

Salvation is free to anyone that will sincerely pray a prayer something like this:

Dear God, I confess to you that I am a sinner and in need of Jesus Christ as my Savior. Please forgive me. I turn away from my sin and place my faith in Jesus. Amen

If you prayed this prayer tell someone about your experience today.

Most things start at the beginning

This will be my attempt to journal the 2010 MR340